Sunbeam Brake Rotor Warning
By Jim Leach
Over the last few months I have heard of a number of failures of Sunbeam Tiger front suspension components. Gary and Carol Christensen collapsed their second front hub in an autocross last year and that prompted many of us to have our hubs crack-tested (magnafluxed). Doug Yip discovered two cracked hubs on his car, and two of his spares were cracked as well. Dick Sanders reports a number of failures of lower 'A' arm fulcrum pins.
The front suspension on my Sunbeam Tiger was sagging and had several cracks developing; all have been expertly repaired by Larry Atkisson. In the process of installing new bearing races in my new aluminum front hubs (from Bud Bohrer), I have discovered fractures in both of my original front rotors. The cracks begin from the four mounting bolt holes and travel inward to the large center hole. The only way to detect these cracks is to remove the rotors from the hubs, as these cracks are concealed under the boltheads.
Actually, I wasn't too concerned about these cracks because the hub center supports the rotor and the web of material there is less than a quarter of an inch. Then I discovered a NINTH crack. This one begins at one of the same bolt holes and travels outward toward the brake pad surface. In other words, this rotor has the equivalent of a four and a half inch crack across it's equator (the center hole is about two and a half inches of this).
It is very possible these fractures have been there since long before I bought the car. On the other hand, I put five seasons of Vintage racing on them with full metallic pads, and I assure you they have been very hot. If you are racing and using original solid front rotors I recommend you check them now. Street driven cars are probably safe, but should be carefully inspected the next time you replace the pads and repack the wheel bearings.
Over the last few months I have heard of a number of failures of Sunbeam Tiger front suspension components. Gary and Carol Christensen collapsed their second front hub in an autocross last year and that prompted many of us to have our hubs crack-tested (magnafluxed). Doug Yip discovered two cracked hubs on his car, and two of his spares were cracked as well. Dick Sanders reports a number of failures of lower 'A' arm fulcrum pins.
The front suspension on my Sunbeam Tiger was sagging and had several cracks developing; all have been expertly repaired by Larry Atkisson. In the process of installing new bearing races in my new aluminum front hubs (from Bud Bohrer), I have discovered fractures in both of my original front rotors. The cracks begin from the four mounting bolt holes and travel inward to the large center hole. The only way to detect these cracks is to remove the rotors from the hubs, as these cracks are concealed under the boltheads.
Actually, I wasn't too concerned about these cracks because the hub center supports the rotor and the web of material there is less than a quarter of an inch. Then I discovered a NINTH crack. This one begins at one of the same bolt holes and travels outward toward the brake pad surface. In other words, this rotor has the equivalent of a four and a half inch crack across it's equator (the center hole is about two and a half inches of this).
It is very possible these fractures have been there since long before I bought the car. On the other hand, I put five seasons of Vintage racing on them with full metallic pads, and I assure you they have been very hot. If you are racing and using original solid front rotors I recommend you check them now. Street driven cars are probably safe, but should be carefully inspected the next time you replace the pads and repack the wheel bearings.
